Over the last few years Tory Burch’s design pivot has brought forth a new signature look — one rooted in empowering personal style with quirky accents, unique color combos, funky fabric innovations and an off-kilter femininity that continues to ooze unfussy cool.
For resort, Burch amplified this narrative with an “everything but the kitchen sink” ethos that hit on the resort season’s requirement of offering a little bit of everything for the warmer, colder and everything in-between climates her clients are traveling to. The result was a delightfully optimistic and dressier collection that evoked the modern lady.
During a preview, Burch told WWD she wanted a strange familiarity with pieces by making classics “a little weirder.” Case in point: Her opening look of a chintzed floral straight shirtdress that hinted at midcentury elegance but felt very of the now with its low-slung matching belt and new waterproof, rubberized leather boots that will certainly be key for New York’s ongoing rainy seasons.
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The look played into the collection’s ethos of mixing in ‘50s retro and home-y ideas, further seen through colorful double-layer V-neck sweaters and cardigan twinsets with a vintage “pilled” appeal and glazed wallpaper jacquard coats in reversible hues of kitchen spices (molten red, saffron yellow-orange) against soft taupe and mushroom shades.
These ladylike signatures continued through new takes on draping, here through hand-twisted rosettes adorned on striking tops, skirts and dresses that clung to the body just-so while pleated skirts had zippers up the front and back for a little added sass.
Alongside new takes on sleek sportswear — monogrammed shirting and great lightweight cotton cargo trousers — her low-slung skirts continued via burnished straight leather styles in colorful patina’d hues. This exploration into new leather treatments also came through tie-dyed, monogrammed layers in techy-cotton; brushed suede jackets, and crushed patent styles.
Throughout resort, Burch’s new treatments and fabric manipulations helped balance the polish with eccentricity, amplified through her mix of accessories of colorful matching set resin flower jewelry; embellished kitten mules, and handwoven raffia and leather fringed totes through a partnership with women’s artisan collective Marasam, alongside new vintage dopp-kit inspired Buddy Bags that paid sweet homage to Burch’s father.
The collection had an unexpectedly dressier bent than in prior seasons, but Burch’s knack for making the familiar feel special remained evident through her balance of classic, “precious” ideas with an irreverent, unpretentious spirit that felt just right for today.