Who Won the Day? Getting Ready for Glastonbury at Burberry at London Fashion Week
London Fashion Week Day 4
At Burberry, Daniel Lee is instilling a British sensibility — and what could be more of a British rite of passage than attending the music festival Glastonbury? A mud green jumper with distressed edges paired with green check trousers and a Burberry check scarf.
“[The collection is] for rolling around outside. They’re clothes you can live in.”
— Daniel Lee
Burberry Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear: All Wrapped Up
Daniel Lee’s latest collection marked a step up. It was outerwear-focused and more sophisticated.
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Who Won the Day? JW Anderson’s British Nosy Neighbors at London Fashion Week
London Fashion Week Day 3
The ludicrously capacious tweed coat at JW Anderson was fit for one thing: spying in the English countryside. What’s under the coat? Perhaps a cup of tea or more variations of the gray-haired poodle perm wigs.
“I just wanted something which was a bit off-kilter.”
— Jonathan Anderson
JW Anderson Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear: Colloquialism Comes to the Fore
There was an intriguing randomness to this collection, which included ludicrously capacious tweed coats and a host of eye-catching knits.
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Who Won the Day? Erdem’s Viva La Diva at London Fashion Week
London Fashion Week Day 2
It’s only fitting that clothes based on American-Greek soprano Maria Callas at Erdem delivered drama and beauty, especially with a red silk pajama set embellished with black beads and frayed at the hem.
“[I wanted to juxtapose] the person and the persona.”
— Erdem Moralıoğlu
Erdem Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear: Viva la Diva
Erdem’s collection was a tribute to Maria Callas following the centenary of her birth in 2023.
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Who Won the Day? Dunhill Brings Back English Style at London Fashion Week
London Fashion Week Day 1
A three-piece suit in 2024 may sound stuffy and unimaginative, but at Simon Holloway’s debut Dunhill show at the National Portrait Gallery, the soft brown attire was the whisper among the audience at the Duveen wing. There were no trappings of yesteryear, but instead light touch that made tailoring exciting again.
“I’m not trying to create some kind of period costume drama.”
— Simon Holloway
Dunhill Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear: A Debut That’s the Talk of the Town
Simon Holloway won the prize for the grandest show on the first day of London Fashion Week.
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Victoria Beckham Resort 2027: Life on the Move
Inspired by the life and photography of Lee Miller, the collection balanced the sensual with the practical.
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Fendi Cruise 2027: The New Bourgeoisie
In her first pre-collection for the Roman house, chief creative officer Maria Grazia Chiuri reinforced the shared wardrobe approach she’s bringing to the brand.
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Huishan Zhang Resort 2027: A Rose Between Two Worlds
Looking to Marella Agnelli as “a rose with thousands of petals,” the designer played with texture, crepe jersey, and couture‑level interiors.
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Blumarine Resort 2027: Dual Voltage
David Koma continued to explore the duality between seductiveness and romance embedded in the brand, and here embodied by Irina Shayk.
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Dsquared2 Resort 2027: City-2-Sea
Nods to the Mediterranean infiltrated the Catens’ mix of sporty separates, preppy looks and seductive eveningwear.
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Louis Vuitton Cruise 2027: Craftsmanship Pops at the Frick
Nicolas Ghesquière took over the famed Gilded Age mansion for his take on New York’s Uptown and Downtown set, with an injection of Pop artist Keith Haring.
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Kenzo Resort 2027: Clothes for Work and Play
In his first pre-collection for the Paris house, Nigo deftly blended workwear, Americana and soft tailoring.
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